RiskyPenny Feature Guide
Paper trading practice mode — all features documented.
Why practice mode is open, and real mode is not
Paper mode is free and open to everyone. No invite, no account, no card. Practice with simulated money for as long as you like — there is no time limit and we will never push you toward real trading before you are ready.
Real mode is invite-only, on purpose. This app moves real money on a live blockchain. Trades cannot be undone, and a bug here does not cost you a page refresh — it can cost you funds. We would rather let a small number of people in at a time to test the app and watch how it does closely.
It is also honest about capacity. Live prices come from our own server. Every open tab costs something, so growing faster than we can serve would make the app slower and less reliable for the people already trusting it — exactly when they need it most.
How to get in: use paper mode. It is the same engine, the same buttons and the same logic as real trading — only the money is simulated. Once you know the app well and there are no issues with trading, and we see our users are coming back in paper mode on a regular basis we can activate real mode. Be sure to fill in the email at the top of the app. Learning the app on fake money first is not a hoop to jump through; it is the single best thing you can do to avoid losing real money later.
The RiskyPenny coin is live ●
Our mascot token on pump.fun · loading… market cap
Official mint: BETyKjhcYLnSsFCa5WFTj9uJwqoCzTHSpuGfB1VneipR
⚠ We never send airdrops or DMs — any “RiskyPenny” that appears in your wallet uninvited is FAKE. Ignore it.
⚠ We never send airdrops or DMs — any “RiskyPenny” that appears in your wallet uninvited is FAKE. Ignore it.
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VIDEO COMING SOON
Modes
RiskyPenny runs in paper and real mode. Paper mode is a full simulation with no real funds.
PAPER MODE
— public tryout. Simulates all trades using a virtual SOL balance. Safe to experiment with all features.
Live/Real
— real trades via swaps on Solana. Requires a valid API key.
Watch Panel
The Watch Panel (right drawer) lets you monitor tokens and run automated buy/sell logic against a price feed. Each token gets its own card.
Adding Tokens
From Prospects
Click the 👁 WATCH button on any prospect card in the main list. The token is immediately added to the Watch panel and price polling starts.
Persistence
Watched tokens survive prospect list refreshes — they are always kept in your list regardless of scout ranking.
Progress Bar
The bidirectional bar shows where the current price sits relative to your entry price.
◄ Left (red)
Fills toward the stop loss threshold. When it reaches 100% a stop loss sell fires automatically.
Right ► (green)
Fills toward the profit target. When it reaches 100% a full sell fires automatically.
Yellow bar
The bar turns amber once you cross the partial-sell threshold (default 8%). A partial sell has fired or is eligible.
Break Even
Shown below the center of the bar. This is the price you need to be at to be back at your average entry cost after DCA buys.
Coin Circles
Your list shows each coin as a circle — the whole panel at a glance, no scrolling. The ring color is your position's state, the number inside is your live P&L, the name shows the mode, and a banked line under it is the coin's lifetime. Tap a circle to open its full card.
⚪ White ring
Not holding. No open position in this coin (or it just fully sold). White means it's free to buy in.
🟡 Yellow ring
Holding. You own this coin — yellow is the base "held" look. As a live price comes in, the ring shifts toward green or red.
🟢 Green filling
Holding & up. Green fills clockwise as your P&L climbs toward the sell target. A full green ring = it hit the target and auto-sells.
🔴 Red filling
Holding & down. Red fills the other way as the price falls toward your stop loss. (With Even-Up armed the stop is suspended — see Auto Even Up.)
Number inside the circle
Your live position P&L, shown as .#### with no sign — the color is the sign: green = up, red = down, white = flat / just entered. This is only your current open position; it resets to zero after you sell.
Coin name — yellow or white
The ticker under each circle tells you one thing only: yellow = you hold this coin, white = you don't (it's on the list, waiting). It matches the circle's outer ring, so the whole thumbnail agrees. Green and red are kept for money — the P&L number inside the circle and the banked figure underneath — so a colour never means two different things at once.
"banked" under the name
The coin's lifetime realized profit — everything it has already flipped and banked for you across all your trades. This is the "over time" number, so you read a coin's whole history at a glance without opening it. The full breakdown still lives in ▼ LEDGER with the INVESTED / PROFIT totals. So: inside the circle = "how's this position doing right now," banked = "how much has this coin made me overall."
Purple outline
Marks the coin whose full card is currently open on screen.
How buying works on the Stable side
You are always the one who decides to enter. On the Stable side there are exactly three ways a buy can happen — and every one of them starts with your decision:
1 · MANUAL
You watch the chart and tap ▲ BUY when you judge the moment is right. The app fetches a live price at that instant and sanity-checks your amount against the pool (a warning appears if your buy would move the price abnormally).
2 · LIMIT (DIP) ORDER
You choose a target price in advance by checking dip-buy in the buy modal. The app stays awake and executes your order automatically when the price falls to your number. Your decision, made early — the machine just doesn't sleep.
3 · AUTO EVEN UP
Armed per position, it buys more when the price dips by your chosen percentage, lowering your average entry toward break even. It never opens a position on its own — it only averages one you already chose to hold. The card shows the exact price where the next even-up buy fires.
Selling is the opposite: fully automatic. The moment you hold a position, the sniper takes over the exit — profit target, trailing stop, and stop loss run without you, because exits are where hesitation costs money. You can always sell manually too, but you never have to.
The Risky side works differently — see its own section.
Setting up the whole panel at once
If you run the same setup on every coin, you don't have to tap it in coin by coin. Two controls at the top of the Stable panel do it for you — and they do very different things, so it's worth being clear about which one spends money.
⚡ AUTO — this one buys
The checkbox at the top. With it ticked, a coin you add to Stable gets a small starter buy (0.03 SOL) right away, and Even-Up is armed on it automatically. The app waits for a real live price first, so a brand-new coin never gets an entry recorded at zero. This is the only setting on this panel that spends SOL on its own — it's off until you turn it on, and turning it off stops all future starter buys immediately.
🛡 FIRM / ⚖ EVEN UP defaults — these only set switches
The box marked SET ON EVERY COIN I ADD. Tick either one and every coin you add from then on arrives with that setting already on — no buying, no spending, just the switches you'd otherwise flip by hand on each card. APPLY stamps the ticked options onto the coins already in your list, so you can set up a full panel in one tap. Your choices are remembered between sessions.
Important — the defaults alone will not enter a trade. Even-Up can only average down a position you already hold; it never opens one. So a coin added with FIRM and EVEN UP ticked but ⚡ AUTO off just sits there, pre-configured and waiting, until you place the first buy. If you want the hands-off version — add coins and let the app take it from there — you need ⚡ AUTO on as well. Even-Up also needs the Stable sniper armed (▶ START) to fire.
Using it with 🔥 FIND 5M HOTTIES
The scanner's ADD ALL button adds a batch of movers in one go, and each of them picks up your defaults on the way in — so a whole batch arrives configured the way you run things. The confirmation window lists exactly what will be set on each coin before you commit.
What FIRM + Even-Up together actually mean
Know what you're arming, because these two overlap: Even-Up suspends the stop loss (it shouldn't sell the dip it's buying) and FIRM removes the trailing stop as well. With both on, the only things that can close the position are your profit target or you. The ladder still has its own limits — a maximum number of rungs, a hard stop if the coin falls far below where the ladder started, an optional market-cap floor, and a cooldown between buys — but nothing will stop you out of a slow decline. That's a deliberate strategy, not a safety net; read Budgeting Even-Up before you leave it running.
BUY / SELL / REMOVE
▲ BUY
Opens a modal to enter a SOL amount. Fetches a live price at the moment of the click so entry price is accurate. Label changes to ▲ ADD TO when already holding, and ▲ RE-ENTER after a sell — multiple buys are always allowed (DCA).
▼ SELL
Manual sell at the current price. Closes 100% of the position and returns SOL to your holding balance.
✕ REMOVE
Stops watching this token entirely. Removes the card, log, and ledger permanently. Requires confirmation.
Flags (second button row)
Flags control which automated actions are allowed. Each shows a description modal before activating. Active flags show a ✓ prefix.
SELL↑
Sell Only — auto-sells fire normally; all auto-buys are blocked. With real money that means Auto Even Up stops laddering; in paper it also blocks dip buys and watcher buys. Use when you want to exit but let the app time the sell.
BUY↓
Buy Only — auto-buys are allowed; all auto-sells are blocked: profit target, stop loss, partial sell and trailing stop all stop firing. Use to accumulate without getting stopped out — but nothing will take profit for you either.
LT
Long Term — asks you to confirm, then moves the coin to the Long Term panel and takes it out of the sniper's hands: no auto-buys, no auto-sells, no stop loss, no profit target. It stays open regardless of price movement until you sell manually or move it back out of Long Term.
FIRM
Firm — removes the stop loss floor and the trailing stop. The position can only close at the profit target or by a manual sell, so it will ride a fall all the way down. (Blocking the trailing stop matters: without it a FIRM coin could still be trail-sold in the night, which is not what "firm" should mean.)
EVEN
Auto Even Up — opens a configuration panel (see below).
Auto Even Up
Automatically buys more when the price drops by a set percentage, lowering your average entry price toward break even. A smaller recovery — often just 10% — can put you back in profit instead of waiting for a full bounce.
While Auto Even Up is armed, the stop loss is suspended — averaging into a dip and stopping out of it are opposite plans, so arming the ladder means the ladder is your downside strategy. The profit target and trailing stop stay active. Disarm even-up (OFF) to restore the stop loss. Know what you're choosing: with the stop suspended, only your judgment or the target closes a falling position.
ON / OFF / 💾 SAVE + ON
ON and OFF toggle the feature; 💾 SAVE + ON commits all three values and arms it in one tap. While armed, the card's EVEN button stays green with a ✓ so you can see protected positions at a glance.
Seeing which coins are armed
On the coin's card the EVEN button stays green with a ✓ while Even-Up is armed, and the ON/OFF pair inside its settings shows which one is active. (The ticker under the drawer circle used to turn green for this; it now shows yellow when you hold the coin and white when you don't — see Coin Circles — so colours never carry two meanings at once.)
Buy %
Percentage of your current holding wallet to spend on each even-up buy.
Max SOL
Hard cap per even-up buy regardless of wallet size.
Trigger %
Fires when your card's P&L — measured against your average entry — reaches this value (e.g., -25%). Each even-up buy lowers your average, so the next buy needs another full dip below the new average (laddered averaging). Your last saved value becomes the default for new positions, and the card shows the exact next-buy price while armed.
Budgeting Even-Up — read this before you arm it
Even-Up is the one feature that keeps spending your SOL on its own. Every time the coin dips to your trigger, it buys more — from your Holding wallet — to pull your average entry down. On a coin that bounces, that's how a small recovery puts you back in the green. But a coin can keep falling, and Even-Up will keep buying all the way down.
The trap: arm Even-Up on a coin that only goes down and it drains your wallet one dip at a time. Once the wallet is empty you're fully in — no dry powder left — and now you need a much bigger bounce just to break even. A falling coin costs more to average each step, not less.
Budget it like this
Decide up front how much you'll risk on one coin — then set Max SOL (the hard cap per even-up buy) so a ladder can't quietly spend more than you meant. Keep a reserve in Holding; never let a single Even-Up ladder use all of it. A good rule: if you wouldn't be OK buying that coin five more times on the way down, your Max SOL is too high or the trigger is too tight.
The app helps, but it's your call
Adding coins checks your balance and warns when funds are short, and every even-up buy respects your Max SOL cap. What the app can't decide for you is when a dip is a discount versus a coin that's just done. Turn Even-Up off (which restores the stop loss) on anything you're no longer willing to keep buying.
Card Log
The small monospace box on each card records a timestamped feed of events. Only logs when the price has actually changed — no duplicate lines.
| Event | What it shows |
|---|---|
| now $… | Current price, watch-start P&L%, entry price, buy-relative P&L% (what the stop loss sees) |
| BUY | SOL spent, price at purchase, source (buy / watcher_buy / dip_buy) |
| AUTO-SELL | Reason, P&L%, SOL returned |
| 📉 DIP | Single-tick drop % that triggered a dip buy |
| 👁 watcher | Cooldown countdown or watcher rebuy event |
The 📋 COPY button copies the entire log to your clipboard.
Ledger
Click ▼ LEDGER at the bottom of any card to expand the full trade history for that token. Refreshes automatically after every buy and sell.
| Column | Description |
|---|---|
| SIDE | BUY or SELL. BUY rows show HOLDING or SOLD badge. |
| SOL | Amount of SOL in this trade |
| P&L | Profit or loss in SOL (SELL rows only) |
| PRICE | USD price at execution |
| REASON | Source for buys; exit reason for sells (stop loss, profit target, manual, etc.) |
| DATE | Date and time of the trade |
The 📋 COPY button copies the ledger to your clipboard.
Auto-Trading Logic
The app must stay open AND visible: Auto-trades only run while RiskyPenny is the visible tab on your screen. Phones and tablets do not run in the background — if the screen locks or you switch to another app, all automated activity pauses until you return. Arming a sniper keeps the screen awake so it won't auto-lock while the app is open, but it cannot run behind a manual lock or another app. To trade hands-off, keep RiskyPenny in the foreground (a phone mount works well) or sell manually. See Device Advice for how to set a device up properly — and note the app now tells you on return if it was paused, with a red ⏸ Auto-sell paused banner showing how long it wasn't running.
Once you are holding a position, the watch poll runs every few seconds and evaluates the following rules in order. All percentages are relative to your average buy price (weighted across DCA buys), not the original watch-start price.
Auto-BUY in real mode requires Auto Even Up to be armed. Real mode has exactly two automatic buys: Auto Even Up (armed per coin with the EVEN button) and the small ⚡ AUTO starter buy when you add a Stable coin with that setting ticked. Nothing else buys on its own. If Even Up is off, the app will never average down for you — Dip Buy and Watcher Rebuy below are paper-mode only.
Auto-SELL needs nothing armed. Profit target, stop loss, partial sell and trailing stop all work on any held coin as long as a sniper is armed. Note the direction of the trade-off: turning Even Up on does not enable selling — it suspends the stop loss (see Auto Even Up), because averaging into a dip and stopping out of it are opposite plans.
Profit Target Sell
Default: +25%
When buy-relative P&L reaches the profit target, the full position is sold automatically. Blocked by the BUY↓ only flags.
Stop Loss
Default: -20%
When buy-relative P&L falls to the stop loss threshold, the full position is sold automatically. Blocked by FIRM and BUY↓. The watcher rebuy cycle then begins.
Partial Sell
Default: +8%
When P&L first crosses +8%, half the position is sold to lock in profit. Only fires once per position. The bar turns amber to indicate you are in the partial-sell zone. Blocked by SELL↑ and BUY↓.
Trailing Stop
After partial sell
After the partial sell fires, the app tracks the peak P&L reached. If the price pulls back more than the stop-loss threshold from that peak, the remainder of the position is sold. Protects gains after a partial exit.
Dip Buy PAPER ONLY
Default: -5% / tick
If the price drops more than 5% in a single poll tick, a small automatic buy fires to average down. Shows as 📉 DIP in the card log. Blocked by SELL↑. This runs in paper mode only. With real money, use Auto Even Up — it does the same job deliberately, with a trigger %, a buy size and a hard SOL cap that you set.
Watcher Rebuy PAPER ONLY
👁 After any sell
After an auto-sell (stop loss, profit target, or trailing stop), the app enters a cooldown period then makes a tiny watcher buy to keep the price poll alive. This means the card stays active and can catch a recovery without you having to manually re-enter. The countdown is shown in the card log and survives page reloads. Paper mode only — with real money the app never spends your SOL just to keep a chart updating. A sold real position stays sold until you buy again.
Device Advice
Watching the market and paper trading work well on any device — phone, tablet, or PC. Nothing is at stake if a page reloads, so use whatever is in your hand.
The advice below is for one specific situation: arming the snipers with real money and walking away. That is when the device you chose starts to matter, because if the browser stops running the app, auto-sell stops with it — and nothing on screen tells you it stopped.
Which Device
Best — a PC left awake
A small desktop or laptop that stays powered on, with the app in a visible window. This is the only setup that reliably keeps automation running for hours unattended. See PC Setup below — a PC still needs three settings changed.
Fine — phone or tablet, in front of you
Plugged in, screen on, RiskyPenny the visible app. Arming a sniper requests a screen wake lock so the display won't auto-lock while you're there. Good for an active session you're watching.
Risky — phone left alone overnight
Phones and tablets suspend background tabs and reclaim memory from them. Switch apps, lock the screen, or just leave it long enough, and the app is paused or unloaded entirely. Your positions sit unmanaged until you open it again.
PC Setup
A PC is only better if these three are handled. Each one fails silently — the app looks fine, it just isn't running.
| Setting | What to do | Why |
|---|---|---|
| System sleep | Windows → Power & sleep → Sleep: Never | Sleep or hibernate freezes everything mid-position. Screen/display off is fine — that does not stop the app. |
| Tab discarding | Edge: turn off Sleeping tabs (or add this site as an exception). Chrome: Memory Saver → add this site to Always keep active. | Desktop browsers unload background tabs to save memory — the same problem phones have. On by default in Edge. |
| Keep it visible | Leave RiskyPenny in its own window, not minimised behind others. | Browsers slow timers in hidden tabs to roughly once a minute. The app still runs, but reacts far too late. |
Phone & Tablet
Keep it plugged in
Automation stops the moment the battery dies. The app warns you when the battery gets low while a sniper is armed.
Keep RiskyPenny in front
Switching to another app or locking the screen pauses all automated activity until you come back. A phone mount works well for a hands-off session.
Expect reloads
When a new version ships, the app reloads itself to pick it up. Your armed snipers, held coins, and settings are all restored after the reload — you do not need to re-arm anything.
Check the ☀ AWAKE badge
While a sniper is armed, a badge sits next to the online dot. ☀ AWAKE means the screen is genuinely being held on. ⚠ NOT HELD means the request was refused — almost always battery saver, so plug in. ⚠ MAY SLEEP means the browser can't do it at all; set your screen timeout to Never. It only shows while armed, because a sleeping screen costs nothing otherwise.
Split screen keeps it running
On a tablet, two apps side by side are both visible to the browser — so RiskyPenny keeps working next to a chart or a map. This is the one reliable way to use another app without pausing automation. Full-screen switching still pauses it.
iPhone & iPad — where your wallets are kept
Apple stores saved data differently from every other device, and it catches people out. Nothing is ever actually lost — but it can look that way, so it is worth two minutes now.
| What happens | What to do |
|---|---|
| Adding to the Home Screen creates a separate, empty app. The icon does not share Safari's saved data, so it opens with no wallets in it. | If you want the icon, add it first, then load your key inside it. Pick one — Safari or the icon — and stay there. |
| Safari clears saved data after about a week unused. Open the app after a long gap and your wallets may be gone from it. | The Home Screen app is exempt from this, which makes it the better home if you only check in occasionally. |
| Other browsers don't help. Chrome and Firefox on iPhone and iPad are required to use Safari's engine, so they behave the same — and each keeps its own separate data. | Switching browsers would start you with an empty app. There is no advantage to it on Apple devices. |
How to add RiskyPenny to your Home Screen (iPhone & iPad)
Apple keeps this in the Share sheet, not in a settings menu — which is why most people can't find it.
| Step | What to tap |
|---|---|
| 1 | Open riskypenny.net in Safari. Not a Private tab — Apple hides the option there. |
| 2 | Tap the Share button: a square with an arrow pointing up. On iPhone it's at the bottom of the screen; on iPad it's in the top toolbar, near the address bar. |
| 3 | Scroll down. Past the row of app icons, into the list of actions below them. This is the step people miss — it sits well down the list. |
| 4 | Tap Add to Home Screen, then Add in the top corner. |
| 5 | Open RiskyPenny from the new icon — and load your key file there. That app keeps its own separate wallets. |
Still can't see “Add to Home Screen”?
At the very bottom of that action list there is Edit Actions… — the option can be switched off there and stays hidden until you turn it back on. Also check you are in Safari rather than Chrome, and not in a Private tab.
The safety net
Your key file restores everything, on any device, in any browser. None of the above can cost you a wallet as long as you have that file saved somewhere safe — which is the whole reason the app hands it to you.
Is My Backup Still Good?
A backup file is only complete for the wallets that existed when you saved it. Make new wallets — or use Recovery to rotate your keys — and an older file no longer covers the wallets now holding your money.
So the Wallets panel checks this for you, just above the EXPORT buttons. It compares your current wallets against the set your last saved file covered:
| What it says | What it means |
|---|---|
| ✔ Backup covers all your wallets | Nothing to do. Your saved file can restore everything you currently have. |
| ⚠ N newer wallets came after your backup | You made or rotated wallets since you last exported. Tap EXPORT to save a file that includes them. |
| Save your recovery file | Either you haven't exported yet, or you exported before the app started tracking this — so it can't confirm what that older file covers. |
It is deliberately not a calendar reminder. You are not nagged every 30 days when nothing has changed, and you are told immediately when something has.
Why This Happens
This is not a bug we can fix. Every browser is designed to suspend background tabs — that is how phones get their battery life. The app does what it can: it keeps the screen awake while a sniper is armed, warns on low battery, and restores your armed state and holdings after any reload. But the operating system has the final say, and it can pause or unload the page no matter what the app asks for.
The honest limit: automated selling only runs while the app is actually running. If your device sleeps, locks, or unloads the tab, your stop loss and profit target do not fire — they resume when you return. If you cannot leave a device awake and visible, treat the snipers as an assistant for when you're watching, and sell manually otherwise.
Risky Panel
The Risky Panel (left drawer) is for tokens you want to actively manage with a specific entry. You add a mint address, wait for the right moment, then buy manually.
How to Play — the mindset before the mechanics
The Risky side is a few-big-winners game. Most micro-caps fade — that's normal and expected. You are not trying to be right often; you're trying to be right big. A handful of coins that run pay for the many that don't, so how far your winners run matters far more than how often you win. A low hit rate can still be very profitable — as long as you let the runners run.
Keep each buy small
Because most fade, size every entry so a total loss barely stings. Small buys let you hold enough different coins that one runner can carry the whole batch.
Let winners reach the target — turn on FIRM
The most expensive mistake is selling a winner early. FIRM removes the stop-loss floor so a coin can only close at your profit target or a manual sell — it keeps a normal dip from shaking you out before the run. The Avg price under the 0 mark and the sell-target price above the bar are there to help you sit still.
Don't panic-sell the dip
Coins swing hard on the way up. Selling into the first red candle clips off the tail — which is exactly where the profit lives. If your reason for buying hasn't changed, the move is usually to wait, not to sell.
The whole thing in one line: small buys, FIRM on, let winners run to target, and don't sell out early. It's a waiting game — the edge is in patience, not activity.
Adding a Mint
From prospects
Click the + RISKY button on any prospect card. A rug-check runs first — the panel only opens if the token passes.
Manual entry
Paste a Solana mint address directly into the add field in the Risky panel and submit. Same rug-check applies.
Rug check
Before a token is added it's screened for red flags: mint/freeze authority still open, one real holder owning too much, thin liquidity, or unlocked LP. Risk data comes from RugCheck — but RugCheck can miss pumpswap pools (the main venue for pump.fun coins) and badly under-report their liquidity, so the app cross-checks liquidity against DexScreener. If DexScreener shows a real, healthy pool, the token isn't failed on RugCheck's blind spot. Burned/locked supply (the null address) is never counted as a "top holder." If a token still fails but you've done your own homework, ADD ANYWAY lets you override.
Card States
QUEUED
→
HOLDING
→
SOLD
→
QUEUED (again)
QUEUED
Token added, waiting for your manual buy. Price is shown in amber so you can watch for your entry point.
HOLDING
You have bought in. The progress bar, P&L%, and auto-sell logic are all active. SELL, LT (Long Term Holding), and FIRM buttons appear.
SOLD
Position closed. Shows final P&L. A BUY AGAIN button lets you re-enter and resets the card to QUEUED.
Note: Risky sells are always 100% of the position — no partial sells.
Flags
🔒 LT
Asks you to confirm, then moves the mint to the Long Term panel — out of the sniper's hands. Position stays open until you manually act.
🪨 FIRM
Removes the stop loss floor. Position can only close at the profit target or by a manual sell. Confirms with a description modal before activating.
Active flags show ON suffix and a highlighted border. Click again to disable (modal confirms).
Ledger
Same layout as the Watch ledger — click 📋 LEDGER at the bottom of the card. Stays open across card rebuilds (Buy Again, status changes).
Buy Again
After a SOLD
Resets the position to QUEUED so you can re-enter the same token without re-doing the rug check. The ledger is preserved and remains visible.
Wallets & Security
In subscriber mode you trade from your own non-custodial wallets, created and stored right in your browser. Nobody else — including us — can reach them. Because of that, your downloaded key backup is the only way to recover a wallet, so keep it safe and backed up.
Your coins are yours — move them out anytime, no fee
In the Long Term panel, every coin has a ⬆ SEND TO A WALLET I CONTROL button — send it to any Solana wallet you own (a Ledger, Phantom, or Solflare) to bank your gains or move to cold storage. It's signed in your browser with your own key, so only you can move your coins, and it leaves RiskyPenny with no fee — just the tiny network cost (and, the first time you send a coin to a brand-new wallet, ~0.002 SOL to open its account there). We never hold your keys, and there's no gate on the way out: you can leave with everything, whenever you want. Receiving to a Ledger needs nothing on the device — it can stay unplugged; a Ledger only signs when it sends.
GENERATE
Creates a brand-new wallet for a slot. You are prompted to set a password and download a backup of the private key — do both before continuing, because the key cannot be recovered afterward.
🔒 LOCK
Re-secures your wallets: it wipes the unlocked keys from the app's memory so nothing can trade or withdraw until you unlock again. Your encrypted keys stay safely stored — locking deletes nothing. Use it whenever you step away, especially on a phone or shared device.
🔓 UNLOCK
Prompts for your wallet password and re-enables trading. There is no password reset — if you lose the password, you must restore from your downloaded key backup.
🔒 / 🔓 badge
The small padlock on each wallet card is a status indicator (locked vs unlocked), not a button. The clickable LOCK / UNLOCK controls sit in the button row below the cards.
🔒 EXPORT (encrypted) — the safe backup
Downloads one file with everything — your Holding / Risky / Stable wallets and every Vault and the Vault TXN wallet — still encrypted with your wallet password. The filename has ENC in it so you know it's the safe one. Because it can't be opened without your password, it's safe to keep in a folder, a password manager, or cloud storage — someone who copies it gets nothing. You need a wallet password set to use this (it won't ever put raw keys into this file). One catch: there's no password reset, so keep the password itself somewhere safe too.
⬇ EXPORT raw keys — offline only
The other backup: your raw private keys in plain text, so they import straight into Phantom or Solflare with no password. That convenience is also the risk — anyone who gets this file controls the funds. Use it only for offline storage (a USB drive or hardware vault) and never leave it in Downloads, a normal folder, or the cloud. For an everyday backup, use 🔒 EXPORT (encrypted) instead.
⬆ IMPORT
Restores your wallets from a backup file — on a new device, or after clearing browser data. It accepts either export (encrypted or raw) and detects which it is; for an encrypted file it restores everything and then asks for your wallet password to unlock. Brings back your trading wallets and all your Vaults in one step.
📱 Using more than one device
Your keys live inside each browser, so every device needs your wallets set up once. The easy way: keep the 🔒 encrypted backup and your wallet password in a password manager (1Password, Bitwarden, or the one built into your phone). It syncs to all your devices, so on any new phone, tablet, or computer you just ⬆ IMPORT the encrypted file and unlock with the password it fills in — no USB stick to hunt for and nothing to memorize per device. With a single device, simply remembering your password is fine.
🔐 Storing your keys
You have three things to keep safe, and none of them can ever be reset or recovered by us:
1. Your account key (from GET MY FREE KEY) — the only way back into your account.
2. Your wallet password file — unlocks your wallets on any device.
3. Your wallet key backups (the downloaded .json files) — the wallets themselves.
Do: copy all of them onto a USB stick (exFAT-formatted sticks work on phones too) — ideally two sticks kept in two different places. A printout in a safe spot also works for the account key. Then test the backup: plug the stick into another device and open one file — a backup you've never read back is just a hope. And always eject/unmount the stick from the menu before pulling it out (phone: the USB notification → unmount; PC: right-click the drive → Eject) — yanking it mid-copy can corrupt the files, and these are files with no replacement.
Don't: leave them in your Downloads folder, email them to yourself, photograph them, or put them in cloud storage — anything online can be phished. And never share them: anyone holding these files IS you, as far as the blockchain cares.
Lose the device but have the files → you lose nothing. Lose the files → nobody can help you, including us. Five minutes with a $12 stick makes you disaster-proof.
1. Your account key (from GET MY FREE KEY) — the only way back into your account.
2. Your wallet password file — unlocks your wallets on any device.
3. Your wallet key backups (the downloaded .json files) — the wallets themselves.
Do: copy all of them onto a USB stick (exFAT-formatted sticks work on phones too) — ideally two sticks kept in two different places. A printout in a safe spot also works for the account key. Then test the backup: plug the stick into another device and open one file — a backup you've never read back is just a hope. And always eject/unmount the stick from the menu before pulling it out (phone: the USB notification → unmount; PC: right-click the drive → Eject) — yanking it mid-copy can corrupt the files, and these are files with no replacement.
Don't: leave them in your Downloads folder, email them to yourself, photograph them, or put them in cloud storage — anything online can be phished. And never share them: anyone holding these files IS you, as far as the blockchain cares.
Lose the device but have the files → you lose nothing. Lose the files → nobody can help you, including us. Five minutes with a $12 stick makes you disaster-proof.
🧯 Don't put everything in one place
One stick holding every wallet is a single point of failure — lost, stolen, or simply dead, and it's all gone at once. Two habits fix it, and they're different for the two kinds of file:
🔒 Encrypted backups — copy them freely. The ENC file can't be opened without your wallet password, so put it in several places: a second stick, your computer, a password manager, cloud storage. Redundancy here is free and there's no reason to be stingy with it.
⬇ Raw keys and the password file — keep few, and keep them apart. These open everything on sight. Two copies in two different buildings beats five in one drawer. Don't store the password on the same stick as the raw keys it unlocks — that's one theft instead of two. If you look after wallets for several people, give each their own stick rather than one that loses everybody at once.
USB sticks are not forever. Flash memory loses its charge over years sitting unpowered, so a stick left untouched can simply fail to read one day. Plug your backups in once a year, check a file opens, and re-copy them to a fresh stick every few years. For amounts that would genuinely hurt to lose, a hardware wallet (above) with its phrase on paper or a metal plate outlives any drive — paper doesn't have a battery, and metal survives a flood or a fire.
🔒 Encrypted backups — copy them freely. The ENC file can't be opened without your wallet password, so put it in several places: a second stick, your computer, a password manager, cloud storage. Redundancy here is free and there's no reason to be stingy with it.
⬇ Raw keys and the password file — keep few, and keep them apart. These open everything on sight. Two copies in two different buildings beats five in one drawer. Don't store the password on the same stick as the raw keys it unlocks — that's one theft instead of two. If you look after wallets for several people, give each their own stick rather than one that loses everybody at once.
USB sticks are not forever. Flash memory loses its charge over years sitting unpowered, so a stick left untouched can simply fail to read one day. Plug your backups in once a year, check a file opens, and re-copy them to a fresh stick every few years. For amounts that would genuinely hurt to lose, a hardware wallet (above) with its phrase on paper or a metal plate outlives any drive — paper doesn't have a battery, and metal survives a flood or a fire.
👁 Show what you're typing
Every password box — setting one, changing one, unlocking — has an eye button on the right. Tap it to see the characters instead of dots, tap again to hide them. Long passwords are easy to mistype on a phone keyboard, and a mistyped password looks exactly like a forgotten one.
🔧 RECOVERY — move everything onto fresh keys
In the wallet panel, under CHANGE PASSWORD. Use it if you think a key may have been seen by someone, if you've been using a device you no longer trust, or if you simply want to start clean. It comes in two shapes:
🛡 SAFETY — makes a brand-new key for every wallet (Holding, Risky, Stable and each Vault) and moves everything across, keeping your setup exactly as it is so you can carry on trading. Your loose SOL is gathered into the new Holding wallet.
🚪 EXIT — sweeps everything into one single new wallet. For cashing out and walking away.
Either way the app downloads your new keys before a single coin moves — save that file, it's the only copy. It checks you have enough SOL for the network fees first and tells you plainly if you don't, before changing anything. If any transfer fails it stops, puts the borrowed fee money back, and leaves every wallet exactly as it was so you can simply run it again. When it finishes, the old wallets are emptied and removed from the app, and your account is updated to the new addresses automatically. 📋 COPY LOG copies the whole run if you ever need to show someone what happened.
🛡 SAFETY — makes a brand-new key for every wallet (Holding, Risky, Stable and each Vault) and moves everything across, keeping your setup exactly as it is so you can carry on trading. Your loose SOL is gathered into the new Holding wallet.
🚪 EXIT — sweeps everything into one single new wallet. For cashing out and walking away.
Either way the app downloads your new keys before a single coin moves — save that file, it's the only copy. It checks you have enough SOL for the network fees first and tells you plainly if you don't, before changing anything. If any transfer fails it stops, puts the borrowed fee money back, and leaves every wallet exactly as it was so you can simply run it again. When it finishes, the old wallets are emptied and removed from the app, and your account is updated to the new addresses automatically. 📋 COPY LOG copies the whole run if you ever need to show someone what happened.
🐷 Savings wallet
When you withdraw, you need a destination address to send your profits to. If you already have a wallet (Phantom, an exchange, a Ledger), just paste its address. If you don't, tap “+ Create a Savings wallet” on the withdraw screen — the app makes you a brand-new wallet and fills in the address for you, so there's no risky address to copy and paste. You must download its backup before using it: that backup is the only key to those savings, and the app never keeps a copy. Don't leave the backup in your Downloads folder — move it somewhere lasting like a USB / thumb drive, a printout in a safe place, or a password manager, or you could lose access to your wallet. For larger amounts, sending to a hardware wallet or exchange is still safer.
🔒 Hardware (cold) wallets — for money you want to keep
A hardware wallet is a small USB-C device that holds your keys inside a chip that never hands them out. To move coins you plug it in and press a button on the device itself, so malware on the phone or computer can't sign for you. It is the safest home for profits you don't intend to trade.
The two makers people actually use:
• Ledger — Nano S Plus / Nano X, good Solana support
• Trezor — Safe range
We get nothing for these links — no commission, no affiliate code. They're here because you asked where to put your savings, and this is the honest answer.
⚠ Buy ONLY from the maker's own website. This is the one rule that matters. Devices bought from Amazon, eBay, a marketplace seller or a stranger have been shipped pre-set-up with a "recovery phrase" already printed in the box — the thief keeps a copy and empties the wallet weeks later, after you've trusted it with real money. A genuine device always makes you generate your own phrase on first use. If a device arrives with a phrase already filled in, it is a robbery in progress; don't use it.
Other things worth knowing:
• Receiving needs nothing. The device can stay in a drawer, unplugged. You only need it to send. So you can send profits to it today and set it up properly later.
• Your recovery phrase is written on paper by you, never typed into a phone or computer, never photographed, never entered on a website. Anyone asking for it — including "support" — is stealing.
• Check the device supports Solana and works with the app you'll pair it with before you buy, especially if you plan to use it from a phone.
• A hardware wallet protects the keys. It does not make a bad coin good.
The two makers people actually use:
• Ledger — Nano S Plus / Nano X, good Solana support
• Trezor — Safe range
We get nothing for these links — no commission, no affiliate code. They're here because you asked where to put your savings, and this is the honest answer.
⚠ Buy ONLY from the maker's own website. This is the one rule that matters. Devices bought from Amazon, eBay, a marketplace seller or a stranger have been shipped pre-set-up with a "recovery phrase" already printed in the box — the thief keeps a copy and empties the wallet weeks later, after you've trusted it with real money. A genuine device always makes you generate your own phrase on first use. If a device arrives with a phrase already filled in, it is a robbery in progress; don't use it.
Other things worth knowing:
• Receiving needs nothing. The device can stay in a drawer, unplugged. You only need it to send. So you can send profits to it today and set it up properly later.
• Your recovery phrase is written on paper by you, never typed into a phone or computer, never photographed, never entered on a website. Anyone asking for it — including "support" — is stealing.
• Check the device supports Solana and works with the app you'll pair it with before you buy, especially if you plan to use it from a phone.
• A hardware wallet protects the keys. It does not make a bad coin good.
⛓ Load coins from wallet
Reads your Stable and Risky wallets directly on the Solana blockchain. It shows every coin you actually have listed in your wallet on solscan — even ones that stopped showing in your lists (a very high market-cap coin, a coin you removed in the past, or one the app's records missed). Whatever is really in your wallet appears here so you can always see and sell it. It looks up each coin's real name from your trading history, and it never buys, sells, or moves anything — it only shows what's already yours.
Vaults
A vault is a wallet you fully control that RiskyPenny uses for one thing only: holding coins and moving them. It never buys, sells, swaps, or approves anything. That's the whole point — it takes your coins out of the wallet that does the trading, so the everyday risks of a trading wallet can't reach them. You can still buy more and sell whenever you like; the actual trade just happens in your trading wallet, and the coins are moved in or out.
🏦 Why a vault is safer
The wallet that trades has to talk to swap programs and pools constantly, so it's the wallet most exposed to a bad token or a sketchy approval draining it. A vault only ever signs a plain “move my coins to my trading wallet” transfer — never a swap, never an “approve,” never a spending permission. There is simply no instruction inside a vault that could let something drain it. Your trading wallets, meanwhile, are kept nearly empty — funded right before a trade and swept back out right after. And the bot never auto-trades a coin sitting in a vault; it moves only when you tap BUY or SELL.
Where you find them
Open the Long Term panel and choose the 🏦 VAULTS tab. Each vault is a header — its name and address — with everything it holds listed underneath. Tap refresh to re-read balances straight from the blockchain.
Making a vault
From a coin's SEND screen
On any coin, tap ⬆ SEND → ➕ CREATE A NEW WALLET, give it a name (say, your token's name), and download its backup. It appears in the VAULTS tab, ready to use. Coins only ever get into a vault from your trading panels — there's no way to type in a random coin and buy straight into a vault. A vault only ever holds coins you already chose in the app.
Buying & selling
BUY — adds to the vault
Tap BUY on a coin in the vault and enter an amount of SOL. The buy happens in your Stable trading wallet (the usual 1% fee, funded from Holding), then the coins are swept into the vault. The vault only receives — its key isn't even used for a buy.
SELL — takes profit out
Tap SELL and choose how much. The coin is moved from the vault to your trading wallet, sold there, and the SOL lands in your Holding wallet. The vault's only part in a sell is that one safe transfer out — the sale itself happens in the trading wallet, never in the vault.
Turning on buy/sell
Buy/sell is automatic — and only for wallets we made
Every vault you create in the app is ready to buy/sell right away (marked ✓ buy/sell ready) — its key is generated here and stored encrypted with your wallet password. For your safety, RiskyPenny never imports a private key made anywhere else. A key that was created — or could have been exposed — outside the app is a key we can't vouch for, so we simply won't take one in. That's why a saved address you don't hold the app's key for (a gift, an exchange, a Ledger) stays view only in the GIFTS tab and can't be traded.
Getting your vaults back
📁 LOAD A SAVED VAULT FILE
At the top of the VAULTS tab. If you're setting up a new device — or you cleared your browser data — this restores a vault from the key file the app downloaded when you made it (and it takes several at once, so you can select them all together). Because these are files RiskyPenny created and you saved, they're welcome back; the rule above still holds for keys made anywhere else. The app checks the file really belongs to this account before it loads, so files from a different account can't get mixed in on a shared device.
Two friendly notes: your ⬆ IMPORT backup already contains every vault, so if you have that file you rarely need this one. And if you load the key file of a vault you've since rotated with 🔧 RECOVERY, the app won't leave you guessing — it tells you which wallet those coins were moved to and which file to load instead.
Two friendly notes: your ⬆ IMPORT backup already contains every vault, so if you have that file you rarely need this one. And if you load the key file of a vault you've since rotated with 🔧 RECOVERY, the app won't leave you guessing — it tells you which wallet those coins were moved to and which file to load instead.
One backup covers everything
Your vault keys are folded into the same ⬇ EXPORT backup as your trading wallets, so one file protects all of them — and each vault still downloads its own key when you make it. As always, keep those backups offline: anyone holding the file controls the coins.
Balance & Funds
HOLDING
Your virtual SOL balance. Starts at 2.0 SOL in paper mode. Decreases on buys, increases on sells. All paper trades draw from and return to this balance.
PROFIT
Running total of realized profit across all closed positions (Watch + Risky). Shown in the header strip.
Add Funds
In paper mode, you can top up your virtual HOLDING balance at any time from the balance display.
How to Get SOL (real crypto)
What is SOL?
SOL is the money of the Solana network — every coin in this app is bought and sold with it. To trade for real, you buy SOL with regular dollars at an exchange, then send it to your app's Holding wallet.
The 4 steps
1. Sign up at an exchange (list below) and verify your ID — takes minutes to a day.
2. Add dollars. A bank transfer (ACH) is usually free; debit-card buys are instant but cost ~3–4%.
3. Buy SOL on the exchange.
4. Withdraw/send the SOL to your app's Holding wallet address (tap Deposit/Withdraw → DEPOSIT in the app to copy it). Choose the Solana network when sending.
2. Add dollars. A bank transfer (ACH) is usually free; debit-card buys are instant but cost ~3–4%.
3. Buy SOL on the exchange.
4. Withdraw/send the SOL to your app's Holding wallet address (tap Deposit/Withdraw → DEPOSIT in the app to copy it). Choose the Solana network when sending.
Where to buy
Popular US exchanges that sell SOL and let you send it out:
• Coinbase — easiest for beginners
• Kraken — free ACH deposits; new-account holds can apply
• Crypto.com — app-based
• Gemini — US-regulated
• Robinhood — simple if you already use it
Or skip the exchange: the Phantom wallet app has a built-in BUY button (card fees apply).
• Coinbase — easiest for beginners
• Kraken — free ACH deposits; new-account holds can apply
• Crypto.com — app-based
• Gemini — US-regulated
• Robinhood — simple if you already use it
Or skip the exchange: the Phantom wallet app has a built-in BUY button (card fees apply).
⚠ Know before you send
• Send only SOL, on the Solana network — nothing else.
• Send a small test first (a few dollars), confirm it lands in Holding, then send the rest.
• New exchange accounts often hold withdrawals a few days after your first deposit — plan ahead.
• Never send coins to an exchange deposit address for keeps — those addresses can change. For savings, use a wallet you control.
• Send a small test first (a few dollars), confirm it lands in Holding, then send the rest.
• New exchange accounts often hold withdrawals a few days after your first deposit — plan ahead.
• Never send coins to an exchange deposit address for keeps — those addresses can change. For savings, use a wallet you control.
Cashing Out & Tax
Getting money out has two parts nobody explains up front: how to move it, and what the taxman thinks happened. RiskyPenny never touches either — your coins are yours and you file your own return — but you should know the shape of it before you start, not in April.
We are not accountants, and this is not tax advice. Rules differ by country and change. What follows is the general shape so you know what to ask a qualified person — and what to write down as you go.
The part that surprises people
In most countries — the US included — you can owe tax without ever seeing a dollar. A trade of one coin for another is usually treated as selling the first one, even though no cash was involved:
• SOL → a memecoin — a disposal of the SOL
• memecoin → SOL when the sniper takes profit — a disposal of the coin
• SOL → USDC to cash out — still a disposal
• spending from a crypto debit card — a disposal of whatever it spent
An active bot can create hundreds of these in a month. None of them move money to your bank, and all of them may need reporting.
• SOL → a memecoin — a disposal of the SOL
• memecoin → SOL when the sniper takes profit — a disposal of the coin
• SOL → USDC to cash out — still a disposal
• spending from a crypto debit card — a disposal of whatever it spent
An active bot can create hundreds of these in a month. None of them move money to your bank, and all of them may need reporting.
What to keep (do this from day one)
For every trade: the date, what you gave up, what you got, and the value at that moment. Your ▼ LEDGER on each coin already records the trades, and 📋 COPY lifts them out as text you can paste into a spreadsheet. Do it as you go — reconstructing a year of memecoin trades afterwards is genuinely painful, and it's the single most common regret we hear about.
Cashing out through USDC
USDC is a token designed to always be worth one dollar. A common route out: swap SOL → USDC on Solana, send the USDC to an exchange, redeem it 1:1 for dollars, spend or withdraw to your bank. Exchanges usually redeem USDC at par, while selling SOL there costs their spread — so this can be cheaper than sending SOL and selling it.
⚠ The mistake that loses everything: USDC exists on several different networks. Sending Solana USDC to an address for another network destroys it permanently. Always pick Solana when the exchange asks, copy a fresh deposit address every single time, and send a small test first.
⚠ The mistake that loses everything: USDC exists on several different networks. Sending Solana USDC to an address for another network destroys it permanently. Always pick Solana when the exchange asks, copy a fresh deposit address every single time, and send a small test first.
"Just borrow against it instead" — read this first
You'll hear that borrowing against crypto avoids the tax hit, because a loan usually isn't a disposal. That part is often true. The rest of the picture rarely gets mentioned:
• Liquidation. Your coins are collateral. If the price falls, they're sold out from under you — automatically, at the worst possible moment. That forced sale is a taxable disposal, so you can end up owing the tax anyway and having lost the coins.
• It isn't free. You pay interest for as long as the loan runs. On a small cash-out the interest can cost more than the tax you deferred.
• The lender can fail. Several large crypto lenders collapsed and customers' collateral went with them. That is history, not speculation.
• Volatile collateral makes it worse. The more a coin swings, the closer liquidation always is — and the coins in this app swing hard.
Borrowing is a real tool for large, long-term holdings of established assets. For getting a few hundred dollars out of a memecoin run, selling and paying the tax is usually simpler, cheaper and far safer. Deferring tax is not the same as avoiding it.
• Liquidation. Your coins are collateral. If the price falls, they're sold out from under you — automatically, at the worst possible moment. That forced sale is a taxable disposal, so you can end up owing the tax anyway and having lost the coins.
• It isn't free. You pay interest for as long as the loan runs. On a small cash-out the interest can cost more than the tax you deferred.
• The lender can fail. Several large crypto lenders collapsed and customers' collateral went with them. That is history, not speculation.
• Volatile collateral makes it worse. The more a coin swings, the closer liquidation always is — and the coins in this app swing hard.
Borrowing is a real tool for large, long-term holdings of established assets. For getting a few hundred dollars out of a memecoin run, selling and paying the tax is usually simpler, cheaper and far safer. Deferring tax is not the same as avoiding it.
Prospects & Watch List
Scout
The Python backend continuously scans for tokens meeting risk and market-cap criteria and pushes up to 500 prospects to the main list.
Watched tokens
Any token you are actively watching is always included in the prospect list, regardless of its current scout ranking. You will never lose a watched token from the list.
Rug check
Tokens added to Risky go through a live rug check. Tokens that fail are rejected.
Remove prospect
You can dismiss a prospect card from the list. This marks it as removed in the database so it does not reappear in future scout cycles.
★ Picks — Hand-Picked Tokens
What it is
A short row of compact token cards pinned above your Watch list — open to everyone, free. These are tokens the owner has personally traded and believes in — higher market cap, lower volatility than penny scouts.
Cards
Each card is small (75×75 px) and shows the token symbol, live price, a DEX link, and two buttons: W (add to Watch panel) and RISKY (add to the Risky panel). No progress bars — just the essentials.
Live price
Picks card prices refresh automatically every 15 seconds from the same price API used by the Watch and Risky panels.
W button
Adds the token to your Watch panel immediately. The app then monitors it using your profit target and stop-loss settings.
RISKY button
Adds the token to your Risky panel queue. A rug check runs first — if the token passes, it moves into QUEUED state ready for you to buy.
Not copy trading
The picks list is a signal, not a mirror. The app trades in your wallet using your settings. The owner's token selection is the input — your strategy and funds are your own.
Platform fee
A 1% platform fee is automatically included in every swap executed through the app — whether manual or auto-triggered.
JOIN THE COMMUNITY
RiskyPenny — paper mode feature guide — all thresholds shown are paper defaults and may differ in subscriber mode.